Blindfold Travel Cards

User Guide

Overview

Blindfold Travel Cards is a fully accessible travel card game inspired by the card game Touring, or 1000 miles, for both sighted and visually impaired people, designed for rapid audio play. If you want to play Travel Cards with game center friends, check out Blindfold Travel Cards with Friends in the App Store.

You control this game using iPhone gestures.
First, in the main menu, select the automobile game: Road Trip, 700 Miles.

You and your opponent are given 6 cards.
Each turn begins by drawing a card from the deck, and then either playing the card, or discarding the card, so you are always left with 6 cards.
You are not allowed to draw from the discard pile.
The objective of the game is to play distance cards that total 700 miles.
You can slow down your opponent by playing a damage card on your opponent, and you can remove a damage card that your opponent played by playing a fix card.
To begin playing distance cards, you must play a GO card.

You want to travel exactly 700 miles, and you cannot exceed 700 miles.
Mileage cards are 25 miles, 50 miles, 75 miles, 100 miles and 200 miles.
For example, if you have 650 miles, you can only play a 50 mile card, or two 25 mile cards.
You are only allow to play two 200 mile cards in one game.

If your opponent plays a SPEED LIMIT card on you, you cannot play a distance card more than 50 miles.
You can remove the SPEED LIMIT by playing an END LIMIT card.

There are 3 types of damage cards that you can play, and there are corresponding fix cards.
The OUT OF GAS damage card is fixed by the MORE GAS card.
The FLAT TIRE damage card is fixed by the NEW TIRE card.
The CRASH damage card is fixed by the REPAIRS card.
The STOP damage card is fixed by the GO card.
After fixing your damage, you must play a GO card before you start playing distance cards.

There are 4 power cards that can be used to fix a damage or prevent a damage.
Once you play a power card, that damage is removed, and your opponent can no longer play that damage card on you.
You can play a power card at any time.
POWER GAS fixes OUT OF GAS card.
POWER TIRE fixes FLAT TIRE card.
POWER REPAIRS fixes CRASH card.
POWER GO fixes STOP card and the SPEED LIMIT card.

If you opponent plays a damage card on you, and you have the corresponding power card in your hand, you can play your power card as a power-up card, and you earn extra points. You only get to play the power card as a power-up card when the damage card is played. You cannot wait a turn and then play it.

Somtimes, you cannot play any of the cards in your hand, so you must discard your worst card, and wait for your next turn.
Refer to the Strategy Guide for hints on which cards to discard when this happens.

The game ends when one player reaches 700 miles, or both players have run out of cards.
If there are no cards in the deck, players continue to play until there are no cards left in anyone’s hand.

Scoring

When the game is over, the scoring is:
You get one point for each distance mile. For example, if you traveled 500 miles, you get 500 points.
You get 100 points for each power card that you played.
You get an additional 700 points if you played 4 power cards.
You get an additional 300 points for each power card that was played as a power-up card.

The player who gets to 700 miles first gets the following additional points:
400 points for completing the trip first,
300 points if the deck is empty,
300 points if that player did not use any 200 mile cards,
500 points for a shut-out, in other words, the other player did not get any miles.

Gestures

To draw a card, tap twice.
To move left or right within your hand, flick left and right.
To play a card, tap twice.
To discard a card, tap three times.
To hear your distance traveled, and other details on your trip, swipe up with 2 fingers.
To hear your opponent’s distance traveled, and other details on your opponent’s trip, swipe down with 2 fingers.
To jump to the first card in your hand, swipe left with 2 fingers.
To jump to the last card in your hand, swipe right with 2 fingers.
To go back to the main menu, swipe up with 3 fingers.
After the game is over, to post your winning score to facebook or twitter, tap twice with 2 fingers.
After the game is over, swipe up with 3 fingers to return to the main menu, up with 1 finger to play again, or down with 1 finger to hear the final scores again.

How to use coins

To play one game of Travel Cards, you will use one coin.
This game comes with 12 coins, so you can play 12 games of Travel Cards.
You can purchase coins in the GET UPGRADES screen.
Read the Common Features Guide for more information.

Playing against the computer

When playing against the computer, you can change the name and skill of the other player.
Players are chosen randomly; some are great, some are good, some are poor players.
To find out more about each of the computer players, in the SETTINGS screen, tap CUSTOMIZE COMPETITOR.
To change a competitor’s name, or their skill level, or their personality, tap on the INFO button.
Customizing your competitors requires an in-app upgrade.

Game Varieties

You can play this game to 700, 1000, 1200, 1500 or 2000 miles.
You can change the number of cards in your hand to be 6, 7 or 8.
You can play this game with an automobile or a sailboat. Refer the Games guide.

Strategy

As in most card games the most important skill is remembering what cards have been played or discarded.
As in other games of the Rummy family, one may spend many turns discarding while waiting for a needed card.
It is vital to spend this time improving one’s hand; so one must constantly re-evaluate one’s hand to determine which card is most discardable.
Often this devolves into a choice between the least of several evils.

By card: Power Cards

The GO power card is the most valuable in the deck. Every effort should be made to delay playing it normally, as it can be played in power-up to a total of 9 damage cards.
All power cards should be retained against the corresponding damage card, as a power-up is worth bonus points.
Power cards may always be played and at any time, so there is no excuse for being caught with one in hand at trip completion (and absurd to discard it). Watch the opponent’s Distance total.

Ordinarily, when one side reaches 500 miles (if playing to 700) it is time to play all one’s power cards, since a single 200 mile card would allow the other side to go out. However there are exceptions in which one might retain a power card while still hoping to use it as a power-up:

In 2 or 3 player games if another player is “stopped” due to some damage (not STOP or END OF LIMIT) then there is no risk of his going out immediately since he must first correct the damage before playing any Distance. If the needed power card is known to be unavailable to the opponent then one may continue to hold one’s own power card, as it will take 3 distinct turns for the opponents to correct the damage, play a GO card, and play any Distance.

In 2 or 3 player games another player may be “stopped”, having corrected the damage, while waiting for a GO card; or may be “stopped” with a STOP. In this case it may be safe to retain a power card for the moment. This depends on the possibility that the threatening player may play the GO power card and immediately follow it with Distance, ending the hand.

If the other side is “stopped” due to some damage and all of the corresponding fix cards and power cards have been seen, then of course they are going no further and there is no threat to catch one’s power card in one’s hand. The same may be said when (unusually) all GO cards and the GO power card have been seen.

Although a mileage total of 600 is clearly threatening, a total of 500 miles is dangerous if your opponent has not yet played any 200 mile cards.
(Recall that it is only permitted to play two of these in a hand.)
A total of 500 miles threatens if only one 200 mile card has been played.
However, note that odd combinations of Distance, such as 550 miles, are not threatening, since no possible combination of two Distance cards could put one’s opponents out.

Don’t be led astray by the relative values of playing a power card normally or by using it as a power up.
The former is worth 100 points, the latter a total of 400; so it’s tempting to wait.
But a corresponding damage may remain unplayed; you may draw it or your opponents may not choose to play it against you.
The 100 is a sure thing — if you are not caught with the power card in your hand.

By card: Fix Cards

There are 3 each of Crash, Out of Gas, and Flat Tire damages.
When all of one type has been seen, there’s no need to keep the corresponding fix card or power card in one’s hand.
The former may be discarded and the latter played normally.

There are 4 SPEED LIMIT damages; again, once all have been seen there is no need to keep any END OF LIMIT fix cards.
However the GO power card should probably be retained.

There are only 5 STOP cards, but it’s not wise to discard GO cards because you’ve seen all the STOPs.
You may still need GO cards in order to get “moving” after another damage card.

It’s probably wise to retain one of each major fix cards if at all possible; if no corresponding damage has been seen, it’s essential.
It’s probably unwise to keep two of the same fix cards and certainly pointless to do so if only one corresponding damage remains.

Discarding a fix card leads your opponent to the natural conclusion that one may have the corresponding power up in hand (or at least another of the same fix), thus discouraging them from retaining or playing that damage card.
This opens the door to an element of bluff and the possibility of confusing the other team.
If one has a reputation of bluffing then discarding a fix card may provoke the damage, permitting one to power-up; if one has a reputation for “honesty”, then it may be better not to telegraph one’s riches by discarding the fix card.

By card: Damage Cards

STOP and SPEED LIMIT are minor damages, the former corrected with a mere GO card and the latter not even entirely “stopping” the opposition.
The other, major damage cards are more valuable.

Retaining two or more of the same damage card may be dubious.
If the corresponding power card is available to the opponent then both damages may be rendered useless at a stroke.

If your opponent has already played a given power card, then all corresponding damage cards are worthless;
if the power card is unavailable to them because you have that power card, then the damage cards gain in value.

You should count the played and discarded fix cards.
Each increases the value of the corresponding damage card and of each remaining fix cards of the same type.

By card: Distance Cards

Distance cards are numerous and usually should be discarded before other cards. Discard smaller Distance cards first.

The need to reach the race goal exactly imposes certain restrictions on the combinations that may be played.
It’s common to reach a Distance total of, say, 675 miles and lose the hand while waiting for a final 25 miles; any other Distance cards are useless.
It may be wise to hold a 25 mile card against such a possibility.

Since 100 mile cards are relatively common, you may hesitate before playing smaller values unless you also have others in your hand.
The closer to the end of the hand, the more important this becomes.
When the opponent seems about ready to complete a trip, it’s easy to get flustered and play a lone 25 or 50 mile card, because that’s all you have;
but it might be wiser to wait and see if another 100 mile card is drawn.

Playing a lone 50 mile card requires that you later play one of the following combinations (to arrive at a round point total): the other 50, or two 25s, or two 75s. Thus this is fairly safe.

Playing a lone 25 mile card requires a later play of: one 75, one 50 and one 25, or three more 25s. Since you may have discarded several 25 mile cards, this may be a risky play.

Playing a lone 75 mile card requires a later play of one 75 and one 50, or of one 25. This is the most risky Distance play.
It’s safer to wait until one has a pair of 75 mile cards before playing either, especially close to the end.

It may be better to discard a 75 mile before discarding 25 and 50 mile cards — because of the above-noted disadvantage and also because a 75 mile card exceeds a possible Speed Limit.

If your opponent has already played two 200 mile cards, then any others are worthless. Likewise, there’s no need to keep more than two in your hand.

By phase of play: Opening


If you go first, and you have a GO card, it’s clearly best to play it.

If you go first, but don’t have a GO card, look for a SPEED LIMIT card before discarding; it is the only damage card you can play when your opponent is not “moving”.

Lacking a GO card, you might be tempted to play GO power card as your first move.
Don’t play that if someone else has taken a turn.
Hold it to use as a possible power-up card, as the chances are very good that you can use it that way.

You often face the situation where your opponent has played a GO card and now it is your turn; you hold both a GO card and one or more damages.
It’s aggressive to play the damage card; some people recommend playing the GO card instead.
If you have a major damage card it may be wise to play it, especially if you are fairly well-off in fix cards and GO cards generally;
your opponent may have to fix the damage, then play a GO card, by which time you will already have played your GO card and some Distance.
If you can only play a minor damage card, such as a STOP or SPEED LIMIT card, it’s probably unwise to play it.
A single GO card will get your opponent moving again after a STOP, while a SPEED LIMIT may not interfere at all with his playing a small Distance card.

Note that regardless of the damage played, your opponent may play a power-up, playing Distance immediately and adding points to the insult.
Against this risk is the hope of getting a shut-out against your opponent.

Until you have played some Distance cards, you face a potential Shut Out yourself.
If your opponent has played Distance, you must bend your efforts to breaking the Shut Out ahead of every other consideration.

Keep a small Distance card in hand when waiting to get “moving”.
This is better than an END OF LIMIT card; you might see two or three SPEED LIMIT played against you, and not be able to move when you get that GO card.
Better to discard the END OF LIMIT or a larger Distance card.

By phase of play: Middle Game

If you have large Distance in hand, play it at once instead of an uncertain damage card.
If you have only small Distance then the damage card is more attractive.
Of course, if you know your opponent will have trouble with the damage then it’s a good play.

Remember that SPEED LIMIT is a weak card; your opponent may still make good progress 50 miles at a time.
It’s generally unwise to play SPEED LIMIT on a “stopped” opponent; he may get a power-up with a GO power card even if he cannot then play any Distance.

Constantly be ready to re-evaluate the relative strengths of the cards you hold in light of those you have seen.
Play strong damage cards before weak ones; discard worthless cards before useful ones and cards of lesser use before those more likely to be useful.

Since there are 3 of each major damage card, it is, relatively speaking, fairly likely that you will face each one at least once.
So it is wise to keep a full set of fix cards (or corresponding power cards) at first.
However, with each damage card seen the risk of taking another of the same damage falls — and so does the value of the fix card.

If you have corrected damage with a fix card and have no GO card, you can play the GO power card to get “moving” again and play Distance on the same turn.
You will forgoes an ordinarily-good chance at using it as a power-up for gaining certain Distance. This is a great way to break a difficult Shut Out.

By phase of play: End of Hand

When you near trip completion it is mandatory to take care to go out evenly; going over the trip limit is not allowed.
You may want to put together all of the last 200 miles in your hand before playing any of it.

When your opponent is getting ready to go out and you are far from completion you may want to discard fix cards quickly.
Your situation is desperate and you will need a lot of Distance to overtake; if your opponent plays a damage card on you, and you cannot go at all you may not have lost much.

Games

There are several variants of this game, using different vehicles, distance cards, damage cards, fix cards and power cards.

Automobile Game

This is the standard game for Travel Cards, previously known as Road Trip. Instructions are in the User Guide and Strategy Guide.

Sailing Game

Your sailboat can travel from 2 to 16 knots. A knot is one nautical mile per hour. A nautical mile is about 1.15 standard miles per hour.

Until the mid-19th century, vessel speed at sea was measured using a chip log.
This consisted of a wooden panel, attached by line to a reel, and weighted on one edge to float perpendicularly to the water surface and thus present substantial resistance to the water moving around it.
The chip log was “cast” over the stern (the rear of the back) of the moving vessel and the line allowed to pay out into the water.
Knots were placed at a distance of 8 fathoms, about 47 feet from each other, and passed through a sailor’s fingers.
Meanwhile another sailor used a 30-second sand-glass to time the operation.
The knot count would be reported and used in the sailing master’s dead reckoning and navigation.
This method gives a value for the knot of about 20.25 inches per second, or one nautical mile per hour.

In the sailing game, you must sail your boat to the finish line, 56 nautical miles to 160 miles, based on the game you pick.
Sailing speed is 2, 4, 6, 8 or 16 knots.
To start sailing, you must play a raise anchor card. To stop your opponent from sailing, you can play a drop anchor card.

Damage cards include no wind, broken rudders, ripped sail, drop anchor and no wake zones, which are repaired by fix cards including strong windws, repaired rudder, new sail, raised anchor, and wake permitted.
Power cards include power wind, power rudder, power sail and power go.

Scoring in Sailing Game

When the game is over, the scoring is:
You get one point for each nautical mile. For example, if you traveled 56 nautical miles, you get 56 points.
You get 8 points for each power card that you played.
You get an additional 56 points if you played 4 power cards.
You get an additional 24 points for each power card that was played as a power-up card.

The player who gets to target score first gets the following additional points:
32 points for completing the trip first,
24 points if the deck is empty,
24 points if that player did not use any 16 knot cards,
40 points for a shut-out, in other words, the other player did not get any miles.

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